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Portovenere is a truly magical place. It's no wonder that it derives its name from the goddess of beauty. Here, you can witness the perfect mix between luscious nature, crystal clear sea and colorful architecture. This small town is difficult to reach, but once you'll arrive, you'll be glad you made the trip. The panorama offered by Portovenere and the three islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto has no equal. You'll find beauty in every corner.
HOW TO GET THERE By car: I strongly advise against coming by car. As I mentioned, Portovenere is very small and the only way to reach it is through a winding narrow road. Your best option is to reach LaSpezia, park there and then use public transportation because parking is a nightmare. By bus: You can take the bus 11P from La Spezia near the train station. The ticket costs 3€, the bus ride is less than 30 minutes and there is a ride more or less every 15 minutes. By boat: I think this is the best way to come to Portovenere. The boat ride is much more comfortable than the car ride and the view from the boat is jaw-dropping. There are various ferry rides that take you to Portovenere, check out the Consorzio Marittimo Facebook Page for daily updates about routes and hours. There are departures from Viareggio, La Spezia and Cinque Terre. The prices vary from 30€ to 60€, depending on the route you choose. By feet: A lesser known way to get to Portovenere is by feet. There are many hiking trails in the area but make sure to check in advance if they are open. Many shops and info point sell maps with updated informations.
WHAT TO SEE
Saint Peter's Church: It's impossible not to notice this wonderful church if you arrive from the sea. It's located on the tip of the town's promontory. It was built on a Paleochristian temple, the structure of which can still be seen today, to the right of the church entrance. The section externally marked by black and white stripes dates to the 13th century and you can reach its top through a teeny tiny staircase to admire a breathtaking view. This church survived every kind of difficulty: from fires to fleet attacks to raids and bombings and it still stands today, as marvelous as ever.
Byron's Grotto: Next to Saint Peter's Church, you'll find Byron's Grotto, surrounded by the city's ancient walls. This place's beauty is beyond compare. The blue sea in contrast with the black molten rock and the white cliffs make for a unique spectacle. Its name is indissolubly linked to Byron, the English poet, because he used to come here to meditate. Legend has it that he arrived here after swimming for 8km, just so he could reach his friend Shelley.
Santuario della Madonna Bianca: On 17th of August the inhabitants of Portovenere celebrate the white Madonna, patron saint of the city, to whom this sanctuary is dedicated. The cult of the white Madonna started in 1399, while the town was fighting the plague under the French occupation. When a man asked for help, the Madonna answered his prayers and the colours the picture he was holding started sparkling. The plague soon ended and the picture was given a place inside the church. Even if legends are not your cup of tea, you should visit this church, built on the remnants of an ancient temple devoted to Jupiter. The sanctuary is filled with relics, said to have been found on a wrecked ship.
Castello Doria: This fortress, whose origins are still unclear, is a classic example of Genoese military architecture. Napoleon converted it into a political prison and after World War II it became the city hall. Nowadays, it hosts several interesting art exhibitions.
WHAT TO EAT Visiting Liguria means two things: pesto and focaccia. Pesto is a serious business here, it is completely different from anything you may have tasted until now. It's a rich green creamy sauce made with Genoese basil, pinenuts, Parmesan cheese and extra-virgin olive oil. Usually served with either trenette or trofie and with the addition of boiled potato and green beans, it is one of this region's wonders. Focaccia is another regional marvel: don't expect the classic thick rosemary focaccia, the Ligurian version is thin and crunchy. You can eat it straight or filled with cold cuts and cheeses of all kinds. Freshly made hot and crunchy focaccia is a must. Another favourite of mine when visiting Portovenere is farinata di ceci, a chickpea rosemary pie traditionally cooked in wooden ovens and served hot.
WHEN TO GO If you don't like crowds and hot sunny weather avoid Portovenere during the summer, otherwise it's the perfect time to go. Go to the nearest beach you can find, listen to a Gino Paoli song and you'll feel like you're back in the Sixties. During the other seasons there are no crowds and it doesn't get particularly cold but there is usually heavy rainfall.
If I haven't yet convinced you to visit this wonderful place, don't listen to me, listen to all the poets and artists who have visited Portovenere over the years and who have sung of its beauties.
Please let me know in the comments if you love Portovenere as much as I do and what struck you the most when you went there.
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